Mold(temporary) frames and Permanent Frames
Well I already read most of this chapter these days and figured out that there was a different technique for the frame setting up and shape transferring.
I think it would be the same thing as Tiger's group but not like what we have done for ours because we just made the temporary frame for our dory. It is still valuable
for us to learn this technique.
Monday, July 25, 2011
Small craft building Day 4 temporary gunwale
Before making the gunwale we have to get a temporary one for it because we need to figure out the size of plywood for topside and we could also see the shape and adjust both side of the boat.
For the temporary gunwale we could use pine for it as it is just temporary.
Gunwale size : L(4100mm+),W(15mm+),H(25mm+)
Cutting list
L:5100MM
W: 280mm
H: 85mm
Use table saw to cut it into the size we need and put it through the Thicknesser.
well we get it!
We need to know how much plywood we need for both side so we have to figure out the location of temporary gunwales
Firstly, screwing the temporary gunwale on the the custom-wood with some blocks.
Secondly,using a pattern to estimate the size of plywood for both side.
Thirdly,transferring the dimension on plywood and making scarf joint with plane.

Next, put resin on plywood and glue them.When it occurs we could sand them flat with sander then nail them on the side of the frames if the shape is fine we could glue them.Making sure that plywood could go above onto stem with the right angle and cut the more out.After the plywood being glued ,we could clean up the glue coming out from inside and outside.
For the temporary gunwale we could use pine for it as it is just temporary.
Gunwale size : L(4100mm+),W(15mm+),H(25mm+)
Cutting list
L:5100MM
W: 280mm
H: 85mm
Use table saw to cut it into the size we need and put it through the Thicknesser.
well we get it!
We need to know how much plywood we need for both side so we have to figure out the location of temporary gunwales
Firstly, screwing the temporary gunwale on the the custom-wood with some blocks.
Secondly,using a pattern to estimate the size of plywood for both side.
Thirdly,transferring the dimension on plywood and making scarf joint with plane.

Next, put resin on plywood and glue them.When it occurs we could sand them flat with sander then nail them on the side of the frames if the shape is fine we could glue them.Making sure that plywood could go above onto stem with the right angle and cut the more out.After the plywood being glued ,we could clean up the glue coming out from inside and outside.
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Small craft building Day 3 about the transom
I lofted the transom but this transom's lofting was bit difference with the lofting I have done before.I realized that the transom's sickness combined the plywood and fashion piece.Under Merf's help I figured out the plywood with 6mm sickness and the fashion piece with 20mm.
Well although I don't need to loft them out but I have to know where are they and how will they fix together.
This would be a good way to cut it out
( Below )
This is the cutting list of the fashion piece of transom.
I used AutoCAD to lay it out that would be easy to understand.
Ok,it's time for transferring the transom onto the plywood of 6mm.
I need :
small batten
steel rule
pencil and rubber
nils and hammer
Attention :
the ratio of the camber is 1:12.4 (from ACAD)
the scale 1:4
the distance between edge of the board and drawing is 10mm.
after drawing I will cut it out by band saw and plane the edges.
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Small craft building Day 2
Monday, May 16, 2011
The small craft building day 1
We upgraded our Dory from 3.6M to 4M. :)
I think we spent too much time on making the extension of the table but it is really essential as well.
Cutting list of that extension of strongback
2 braces (small)
Legs 810mm(high) * 4 pcs
braces inside 810mm(length) * 2 pcs
extension bar 1000(length) * 2 pcs
screw block * 4 pcs
Next we selected 3 pcs of MDF(Medium Density Fiberboard) of 2440mm * 1220mm
Transferring the drawing from CAD printed onto the boards . It needs our absolutely accurate drawing!!
It would be very annoying if we get some mistakes.
All done but unfortunately we got one piece of waste as the inaccurate drawing.
Next step we are going to set up these frames on the strong back.
Making some blocks like wedges and screwing them on the strong back with 2 pieces every single side.
Making some braces and screwing them between the frames for strengthening.
I think we spent too much time on making the extension of the table but it is really essential as well.
Cutting list of that extension of strongback
2 braces (small)
Legs 810mm(high) * 4 pcs
braces inside 810mm(length) * 2 pcs
extension bar 1000(length) * 2 pcs
screw block * 4 pcs
Next we selected 3 pcs of MDF(Medium Density Fiberboard) of 2440mm * 1220mm
Transferring the drawing from CAD printed onto the boards . It needs our absolutely accurate drawing!!
It would be very annoying if we get some mistakes.
All done but unfortunately we got one piece of waste as the inaccurate drawing.
Next step we are going to set up these frames on the strong back.
Making some blocks like wedges and screwing them on the strong back with 2 pieces every single side.
Making some braces and screwing them between the frames for strengthening.
Saturday, May 14, 2011
lofting day
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The first step in lofting is to lay out the grid for the three views.The grid is the general name denoting all of the straight lines that represent the location of the buttocks,waterlines,centerlines,and station lines.
(be sure of that the measurement should be very accurate)
When all the straight lines are finished the next step is to draw the curved lines.I begin with sheer line.Go to the table of offsets for the profile view,given in distances from the centerline.Then at each station line,carefully measure the dimensions from the Cl given in the offsets.Lay a fairing batten on these points.
To make sure the batten can touch every point by its edge i use nails to hold it there.
Sunday, March 20, 2011
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